Ealing's Man About Town Talks Dirty

Jon Ball reviews the town's latest eatery that sells ' dirtyburgers'

( dirty bacon burger )

Chicken Shop and Dirtyburger are opening in the Ealing Broadway Centre - two brands, but only one restaurant. As you might expect from somewhere backed by classy Soho House, it’s more upmarket than either of the brand names imply.

It’s the first branch of this rapidly growing chain in West London, and it’s an interesting concept.

First impressions. When you walk through the door, you see a wooden cocktail bar. Heading into the main space, the comfy green and brown decor with dimmed industrial coolie lights to add a bit of edge are very different from the bright colours and fluorescent strips you expect at a fast food joint. The patio doors along the front will open up on Summer days.

The menu is very brief and fairly cryptic. It’s chicken or burgers - the clue is in the names. To start with, do you want a Dirty burger or a “Not so Dirty” burger?

My server enthusiastically explained that the dirtiness refers to the amount of sauce and melted cheese on the burger making it messy to eat, with a Not so Dirty burger having not so much of it. The Dirty cop-out and Dirty beets turn out to be the two vegetarian options.

If you don’t ask, you won’t learn so the terse menu encourages a conversation. As well as the expected soft drinks, you can wash you burger down with draft lagers and IPA, wine and even cocktails.

It’s the first time I’ve had a peppery bloody mary with a burger, but may not be the last. Continuing the menu’s brevity, wine choices are simply listed as house, good or great. Ask your server if you want to know what each is - the good white turns out to be a perfectly drinkable Pinot Grigio.

My well-travelled companion enjoyed one of the adult ‘hard' milkshakes on offer - vanilla with amaretto - which she advises is a similar concept to a South African Don Pedro.

But what about the burgers? I had a Dirty bacon ( pictured at the top). I unwrapped the paper to find a freshly cooked Dirty burger topped with thick-cut high-quality bacon - and it was very good. The juicy beef was just right. I’d rate it as up to Five Guys standards, which is high praise from me. I’ll let you into a secret - it’s not really too messy to eat, either. In a coals to Newcastle moment, London-based Dirtyburger have even opened a branch in Chicago. It’s crazy but it just might work there too.

One option that doesn’t feature on the American menu is the Dirty bird. I guess the joke doesn’t translate. Anyway, my companion had a Dirty bird - a very good buttermilk fried chicken burger with a bit of a kick provided by chipotle mayonnaise.

She said it wasn’t as dirty as mine. We tried three of the sides, which arrive in generous portions. The crinkle-cut fries are great and not at all greasy, the crunchy coleslaw is refreshing but the onion fries are not vastly different to ordinary onion rings (also on the menu) but, in my opinion. have too high a ratio of batter to red onion.

Service was very friendly and very fast throughout- it’s amazing how often allegedly fast food isn’t! - although slightly haphazard. The servers were all brilliant with kids.

We tried two of the three dessert options. The deep-filled apple pie really is homemade - as evidenced by my slice being served from a big dish at the table. The soft chocolate brownie with nuts in and the apple pie were both good enough to come in specially for. Though why would you not have a Dirtyburger or a Dirty bird? Should you try it, yes? The decor and staff are welcoming, the branding is quirky and most importantly the food arrives pronto and is great quality. It opens officially on Friday...

I’ll be back.

(Happy customers)

Jon Ball

9th March 2017